Steve Chiappetti and the Albert
One thing’s for sure: when Chef Steve Chiappetti is running the kitchen, the food’s going to be good. From his early days at outstanding restaurants like The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel and Spiaggia to Mango, Rhapsody and his current post at the Albert in the EMC2 Hotel, he’s romanced diners with some of the best food in town.
The Albert is tucked into the EMC2 Hotel, a 198-room property designed to be unique, stylish and comfortable, a mix that marries well with Chiappetti’s style and creativity.
Born and raised on Chicago’s south side, he’s descended from multiple generations of butchers, Italians on his father’s side and French/German on his mother’s. As he explains, they stayed with what they knew and then passed on what they knew to him.
Chiappetti describes the food at the Albert as Italian, a cuisine that begins with something good and then makes it taste even better. It’s about sauces designed to complement, about seasoning chosen because it seamlessly enhances the flavor of whatever it touches, about a garnish that provides the finishing touch.
The Albert’s dinner menu begins with shared items, among them a polenta board that the chef describes as one of his family’s favorites. The polenta is cooked with butter and Parmesan and then spooned-table side-onto a board. Two sauces accompany the polenta. Diners serve themselves, adding the sauces wither sequentially or in combination.
For me, one of the marks of a good chef is the ability to keep the seasonings balanced. Too many hot chilies, for example, and the taste of everything else is obscured. Chiappetti’s crudo, however, avoids missteps. He pairs seared ahi tuna with a Calabrian chili aioli that- while invigorating- supports rather than dominates. The fresh mango and black truffle relish follows a similar game plan.
Diners interested in risotto and a choice of pastas won’t be disappointed. The tagliatelle is done with braised veal and beef, and the risotto includes a blend of mushrooms and a veal reduction. There’s a three-cheese ravioli in a white truffle cream sauce, gnocchi with a fresh tomato /garlic / basil sauce, and lasagna made with spiny lobster and a lemon cream reduction.
Which brings me to the beef. Were I giving serious thought to becoming a vegetarian, this beef would convince me otherwise. I admit to not liking either cool centers or beef cooked until the last tinge of pink is eliminated. Trust Chiappetti to avoid either extreme. The beef was rare enough to be flavorful and juicy, yet cooked enough to be hot.
While I’m not a fan of Brussels sprouts, I decided to give them a try. Fried, well-seasoned and finished with Parmesan cheese, they’re definitely a good choice. It’s time to rethink my aversion.
Desserts are-of course- one of the musts of any tasting. And to be honest, if you’re having dinner at the Albert, it would be a mistake to take a pass. The olive oil cake is easily shared, as are some of the other options, but if you’re in the mood for spectacular, try the affogato bomb. I’ll skip the superlatives and let the pictures do the talking.
The Albert seats 110 inside and another 30 outside. There’s also a chef’s table in the kitchen, which is a great option for a group. The restaurant serves breakfast, brunch on Sundays, dinner beginning at 5pm, and a bar menu from 4-9 pm.
The Albert, 228 E. Ontario Street, Chicago 312.471.3888. contact@thealbertchicago.com
Pictures courtesy of Judith Landesman