It’s 11:30 on a warm Wednesday morning, and Jesse Lee is baking the crusty sourdough loaves for Brasserie By C&C’s signature butter board. Like partner Brad Newman, Lee has a passion for baking in general and, in his case, baking bread in particular.
“The restaurant scene is increasingly competitive, and a really great loaf can make an important difference,” Lee says. “But,” he adds, “it has to be a quality loaf; that’s a crucial ‘must.’”
Lee’s loaves begin with a hybrid starter made with commercial yeast in combination with the sourdough “mother” Lee developed for the restaurant. Adding the commercial yeast, he explains, gives the finished loaf both an “open crumb” and the airiness typical of artisanal sourdough loaves.
To understand the difference in texture and appearance, envision the tidy, evenly sized crumbs typical of a standard white bread. Artisanal loaves like Lee’s, on the other hand, have an uneven surface, complete with shallow “potholes,” much like the surface of a road in need of repair.
The restaurant’s breads begin with a basic mix of yeast, salt, flour and water to which Lee often adds fresh herbs or a portion of whole wheat, spelt or rye flour. Whatever the mix, the dough ferments overnight in the refrigerator.
Large scale commercial bakeries use steam-injected ovens to create their crisp-crusted loaves. When I bake this kind of bread at home, I put a pan of water on the oven’s bottom rack and then brush the loaves with cold water two or three times as they bake. Steam collects in the bread as it bakes. To allow it to escape, slits are cut into the top of the unbaked loaves. Lee bakes the loaves in cast iron Dutch ovens lined with parchment paper in a large commercial oven pre-heated to 450-degrees F.
The restaurant offers two sharable bread options: a simple serving of bread and butter ($10) and a Butter Board ($18), complete with a duo of butters and seasonal toppings. According to Lee, the Butter Board is sometimes paired with a substantial starter like French onion soup and ordered as an entree.
Good as it is, bread isn’t the only reason for Brasserie by C&C’s success. For starters, think “diversity.”
The brasserie format offers a flexible middle ground between casual bistro fare and haute cuisine, and for both chefs, the wiggle room is appealing. Not only does it offer an opportunity to use items Brad developed during the twelve years he owned Cookies & Carnitas (his first restaurant), but it also leaves room for the chefs to explore the increasingly diverse global table.
As a result, the dinner menu includes classic French dishes like steak frites, chicken cassoulet, and creme brulee, along with mushroom enchiladas, an aged steak taco, and a burger topped with aged cheddar. The restaurant also offers a seasonal, three-course dinner with optional wine pairings, a full bar menu, wine dinners, and special events.
Brasserie By C&C, 5938-5940 N. Broadway, Chicago 773.769.2900
Hours: Thursday-Sunday 4pm-11pm
Kitchen closes at 10pm, drinks served until 11pm.
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